‘Every Cook Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.

When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.